The market where the spirits shop
Thirty minutes from the centre of Lome, the capital of Togo, there is a market unlike any other in the world. At the Akodessewa fetish market — also called the Marche des Fetiches — the customers are not buying vegetables, cloth, or electronics. They are buying the materials of Vodun ritual: dried animal heads, medicinal herbs, carved wooden figures, and the thousand small items that connect the visible world to the invisible one.
It is the largest voodoo market on earth. For visitors from Benin, just across the border, it is a familiar destination — part of the cross-border Vodun culture that connects the two countries.
The market
Akodessewa is not a tourist attraction that happens to sell ritual items. It is a functioning supply centre for Vodun practitioners across Togo, Benin, and beyond. The traders are themselves initiates of Vodun, and they know exactly what each item is for.
The market occupies a large open area, with stalls arranged in rough sections. The atmosphere is businesslike. This is not a museum. It is a place of trade.
What you will see:
Animal parts: The most visually confronting section. Dried monkey heads, baboon skulls, crocodile skins, snake skeletons, tortoise shells, bird feathers, porcupine quills, lion claws (though genuine lion parts are now rare). These are not souvenirs. They are ritual materials, each with a specific spiritual function.
Herbs and plants: Dried leaves, roots, bark, and powders, arranged in sacks and baskets. The herb sellers are knowledgeable — they can tell you what each plant is for: protection, love, prosperity, healing, or divination.
Fetish objects: Carved wooden figures, iron objects, wrapped bundles, and containers of sacred earth. These are not art objects. They are functional spiritual tools, similar to the bocio of Benin.
Divination equipment: Palm nuts, cowrie shells, divination chains (opele), and the powders used in Fa divination.
Animal skulls: The most famous feature of the market — row after row of skulls: antelopes, monkeys, dogs, crocodiles, and other species. Each skull has a purpose: protection, ancestor communication, or specific Vodun rituals.
The Vodun connection
Akodessewa is not a museum of Vodun. It is a living part of the Vodun economy. Every item sold has a buyer who needs it for a specific ritual purpose.
The market is closely connected to the Vodun convents of Togo and Benin. Priests and initiates come to Akodessewa to purchase items they cannot produce themselves: animal parts that require specific hunting skills, herbs that grow only in certain regions, and manufactured items like bells, cloth, and ironwork.
The market also serves individual practitioners who come for personal rituals: a woman buying herbs for a love offering, a man purchasing a skull for ancestor veneration, a family collecting materials for a protective ritual.
History of the market
The Akodessewa market has existed for decades, but its origins are not precisely recorded. It grew organically from the practice of rural medicine sellers bringing their products to a central location. Over time, the market specialised in Vodun materials as the demand for authentic ritual items grew.
The market's location in Lome is strategic. Lome is the capital of Togo, located on the border with Benin. The Ewe and Fon populations on both sides of the border share Vodun traditions, and the market serves practitioners from both countries.
In recent years, the market has also become a destination for international visitors — researchers, journalists, documentary filmmakers, and spiritual tourists. The traders have adapted, with some stalls now offering explanations in French and English.
The controversy
Akodessewa is not without controversy. Animal rights organisations have criticised the market for the trade in endangered species. Some of the animals whose parts are sold — chimpanzees, leopards, certain monkey species — are protected under international agreements.
The market's defenders point out that the trade is traditional and small-scale. Most animals are not killed specifically for the market. They are by-products of hunting for food, or animals that died of natural causes. The market is part of a traditional subsistence economy, not an organised wildlife trafficking operation.
Nevertheless, some species are under pressure, and there have been efforts to regulate the trade. Visitors concerned about this issue should ask about the origin of animal products and avoid buying items from clearly endangered species.
Visiting akodessewa
Akodessewa is accessible from both Lome and from cities in southern Benin. It makes a practical day trip from Ouidah (about 2 hours by car) or from Cotonou (about 3 hours).
Getting there: From central Lome, take a taxi to the Akodessewa neighbourhood. The market is well-known and any driver can take you. The fare from central Lome is approximately 2,000-3,000 CFA.
Hours: The market is active from early morning until late afternoon. Morning is the best time to visit, when the traders are setting up and the atmosphere is most authentic.
Guides: Hiring a guide is strongly recommended. The market is visually overwhelming and the purpose of many items is not obvious. A good guide can explain what you are seeing and introduce you to the traders.
Photography: Ask permission before photographing the stalls or the traders. Some traders are happy to be photographed; others find it intrusive. Do not photograph ritual items without asking what they are and whether photography is permitted.
What to buy: Small items such as cowrie shells, small carved figures, or bundles of herbs make respectful purchases. Avoid buying animal parts unless you are certain they are from non-endangered species and you understand their ritual use.
Etiquette: The market is a place of business, not a show. Treat the traders with respect. Do not touch items without asking. Do not haggle aggressively — the prices are generally fair.
Cross-border Vodun tourism
Akodessewa is part of a broader pattern of cross-border Vodun tourism in the region. Visitors based in Benin often combine a visit to Akodessewa with other Vodun sites:
- Ouidah (Benin): The historic centre of Vodun in Benin, site of the FINAB festival and the Door of No Return
- Abomey (Benin): The royal palaces and the Vodun traditions of the Dahomey kingdom
- Ganvie (Benin): The stilt village on Lake Nokoue, with its water spirit traditions
- Akodessewa (Togo): The fetish market
- Tado (Togo): The ancestral homeland of the Fon and the site of the Agassou legend
A visitor could easily spend a week exploring Vodun sites on both sides of the border. The spiritual culture of the region does not stop at national boundaries.
Explore further: Vodun Convents Today · Vodun in Dahomey · Attending a Vodun Ceremony · FINAB Vodun Festival · Ouidah Origins · Visit Ganvie
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