Visit Abomey
culture2026-06-153 min read

Pastel-coloured houses built by returning Afro-Brazilian merchants

The Brazilian quarter of Ouidah features pastel-coloured Aguda houses built by Afro-Brazilian merchants who returned to Benin in the 19th century. A unique architectural legacy.

One of the most visually distinctive parts of Ouidah is the Brazilian quarter, where pastel-coloured houses with wrought-iron balconies line the streets. This neighbourhood was built by Aguda — the descendants of former enslaved people who returned to West Africa from Brazil in the 19th century.

Who were the Aguda?

The Aguda were Afro-Brazilian merchants, craftsmen and builders who crossed the Atlantic in reverse, bringing with them the architectural styles, cuisine and Catholic faith of colonial Brazil. In Ouidah, they became influential traders, often working with the Portuguese fort and the local Fon royalty. Some, like the famous Francisco Felix de Sousa (Chacha), became wealthy slave traders and powerful intermediaries.

Architectural features

Aguda houses are immediately recognisable. They are built in a colonial Brazilian style with colourful facades painted in soft yellows, pinks, blues and greens. Other features include ornate iron balconies, shuttered windows, tiled roofs and inner courtyards. Many houses are two-storey, standing out against the single-storey vernacular architecture around them.

The best examples are found along the main streets of the Brazilian quarter, near the cathedral and the Portuguese fort. Some are still inhabited by descendants of the original Aguda families.

Cultural legacy

The Aguda brought more than architecture. They introduced cassava-based dishes, Catholic festivals, and the Portuguese language. The Brazilian quarter is still home to families who maintain these traditions. The annual Aguda festival celebrates this heritage with music, dance and a strong sense of identity that bridges Benin and Brazil.

Learn more about Ouidah's Brazilian quarter and Aguda heritage at Ouidah Origins.