The Aguda community of Benin: Afro-brazilian returnees

"We came back. We crossed the Atlantic the other way, with our Portuguese names, our Catholic faith, and our Bahian recipes. Here, we are the Agudas." — Proverb of the Aguda community of Porto-Novo

The story of the Agudas is one of the most fascinating and least-told chapters of Atlantic history. They are the descendants of Afro-Brazilians — freed former slaves and their children — who left Brazil after the abolition of slavery in 1888 to resettle on the land of their ancestors: the Bight of Benin.

They arrived with Portuguese surnames (Da Silva, De Souza, Santos, Olympio), a Catholic faith mingled with Candomble, Brazilian cuisine, a flair for tropical baroque architecture, and a fierce determination to rebuild their lives in Africa. Today, their descendants form a distinct community within Beninese society — recognized as both Beninese by birth and Brazilian at heart.

This article explores who the Agudas are, how they shaped modern Benin, and where to find their heritage today.

Who are the agudas?

The term Aguda (sometimes Agouda, Brazilian Beninese) refers to the Afro-Brazilians who migrated to the Bight of Benin between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and their descendants. The name may derive from the Portuguese word agudo ("sharp") — possibly a reference to their way of speaking Portuguese, perceived as more "sharp" than local languages.

Two main return waves occurred. The first, between 1835 and 1860, was composed mainly of former slaves who had participated in or been affected by the Male Revolt in Salvador in 1835 — an uprising of Muslim and African slaves that triggered severe repression. Thousands of free Africans and former slaves chose to leave Brazil.

The second, larger wave followed the abolition of slavery in Brazil in 1888 (Lei Aurea). Entire families, often organized into communities, made the return voyage to what they considered their true homeland.

Estimates suggest that between 3,000 and 8,000 Afro-Brazilians migrated to the West African coast between 1835 and 1900. Most settled in Porto-Novo, Ouidah, Lagos (present-day Nigeria), and Agoue (present-day Togo).

The founding families

The da silvas

The Da Silva family is one of the oldest and most influential in the Aguda community. Originating in Bahia, the family established itself in Ouidah and then Porto-Novo, where it became a pillar of commerce and cultural life. The Da Silva House in Porto-Novo is today a museum dedicated to Aguda memory — one of the few places where the community's history is documented and presented to the public.

The de souzas

The De Souza family is perhaps the most famous Afro-Brazilian family in Benin. Francisco Felix de Souza (the Chacha) was not part of the post-abolition returns — he had arrived much earlier, in the early 19th century — but his descendants form a major branch of the Aguda community. The De Souzas are present in Ouidah, Porto-Novo, and Cotonou, and include businesspeople, artists, and political figures among their ranks.

The olympios and the santos

The Olympio family settled in Agoue (Togo) and Porto-Novo. One of its members, Sylvanus Olympio, became the first president of independent Togo in 1960. The Santos family, meanwhile, established themselves mainly in Porto-Novo and Lagos, contributing to commerce and the city's architecture.

The Aguda architectural heritage

One of the most visible contributions of the Agudas to Benin is their distinctive architecture. Aguda houses — sometimes called "Brazilian houses" — are colorful buildings with baroque and neoclassical influences, featuring colonnades, wrought-iron balconies, high ceilings, and pastel colours.

Porto-Novo has the highest concentration of Aguda architecture in West Africa. The city's historic quarter, particularly around Place Bayol and Avenue de la Liberte, is dotted with two-storey houses in yellow, green, and blue facades that recall Salvador's Pelourinho district.

In Ouidah, the House of Brazil (located near Chacha Square) is a beautiful example of this architecture. The Da Silva Museum in Porto-Novo, housed in an original Aguda dwelling, offers a glimpse into the community's domestic life in the 19th century.

The significance of this heritage is such that Porto-Novo has been proposed for UNESCO classification for its Afro-Brazilian architecture.

Aguda cuisine: A bridge between Bahia and Benin

If architecture is the visible heritage of the Agudas, cuisine is the savoury one. The Agudas introduced to Benin Brazilian dishes that are now integral to Beninese cuisine:

• Acaraje (black-eyed pea fritters) — directly imported from Bahia, where it is also called acarajé. This deep-fried bean cake in palm oil is now a popular street food throughout Benin.
• Feijoada — the Brazilian national dish, adapted with local ingredients.
• Vatapa — a creamy shrimp, cashew nut, and palm oil puree that Beninese know in various local versions.
• Tropical fruit jellies and Portuguese/Brazilian puddings.

The Agudas also introduced the cultivation of certain Brazilian fruits and vegetables, including okra varieties and palm oil refined in the Brazilian style.

Religion: Between catholicism and Candomble

The Agudas arrived in Benin with a complex religious identity. Officially Catholic — the Catholic Church was the only legal religion in Brazil — many also practiced Candomble, the Afro-Brazilian religion derived from Vodoun and Yoruba traditions.

This dual belonging persists today in the Aguda community. Aguda families celebrate both Catholic masses and Vodoun ceremonies, often in a syncretism that anthropologists call "dual ritual competence."

In Porto-Novo, the Saint-Michel Church — one of the oldest churches in the city — was built and frequented by the Aguda community. Alongside it, Vodoun festivals continue to be practiced, particularly ceremonies dedicated to Aguda ancestors.

Professor John D. Monteiro, a historian from the University of Sao Paulo specializing in this migration, writes: "The Agudas represent a unique case of Atlantic circulation — they were neither fully Brazilian nor fully African. They were both, and it is in that duality that their identity resides."

The agudas today

Today, the Aguda community is estimated at about 10,000 to 15,000 people in Benin, mainly concentrated in Porto-Novo, Ouidah, and Cotonou. They are also present in Lagos (Nigeria) and Agoue (Togo).

The Agudas have been largely absorbed into Beninese society, but they retain distinctive markers of identity:

• Portuguese surnames remain the most evident sign of community belonging.
• The memory of the return voyage is transmitted orally within families.
• Aguda cultural associations organize events and preserve traditions.
• The link with Brazil remains strong: many Agudas have family in Brazil, and cultural exchanges regularly take place between Porto-Novo and Salvador.

Since the 2000s, a resurgence of interest in Aguda identity has emerged, driven by cultural and tourism initiatives. The Da Silva Museum in Porto-Novo has become a pilgrimage site for Brazilian visitors seeking their roots.

Frequently asked questions about the agudas

What is the difference between agudas and other Beninese?

The Agudas are distinguished by their Portuguese surnames, architectural heritage, Brazilian-influenced cuisine, and historical memory of the return from Brazil. However, they are integrated into Beninese society and share the Fon language and local traditions.

Where can you see Aguda architecture in Benin?

Mainly in Porto-Novo (historic quarter, Avenue de la Liberte, Place Bayol) and Ouidah (near Chacha Square). The Da Silva Museum in Porto-Novo is a preserved example of a 19th-century Aguda house.

Do the agudas still speak Portuguese?

Portuguese is no longer fluently spoken by the majority of Agudas, but some words and expressions survive, and a recent interest in the Portuguese language has emerged within the community.

Can you visit Aguda families?

Yes, some Aguda families in Porto-Novo and Ouidah welcome visitors as part of cultural tours. The Da Silva Museum can arrange meetings with community members.

Discover the Aguda heritage and dahomey's history

The story of the Agudas is a round trip — from Africa to Brazil and back to Africa — that embodies the resilience of the African diaspora. To go deeper, explore the history of Dahomey and the slave trade and the Dahomean diaspora in Bahia and Haiti. Discover also the memory and research work on the Slave Route at Ouidah Origins. Plan your trip to Benin to explore Porto-Novo and Ouidah and meet this unique community.